Which Battery Is Right For Me?

“You’d be surprised which battery is right for you after reading this article”

Finally, a simple comprehensive, easy-to-read chart for battery shopping. All the math is done for you on a single chart. There are two ways to shop for the battery you need.

  1. Buy the battery for the full range of the device. (This is for users who want cells that can keep up with max settings)
  2. Buy the battery for your own personal settings. (This is for more disciplined users who know they will never exceed certain settings)

Starting from the left, you would simply ask yourself. How many batteries do you use in your device? Then either you get the cells that your device’s max wattage is capable of, or go to your comfort zone of wattage setting. Trace up the chart and that is your battery. Keep in mind that battery specifications are similar to buying tires. There is two main things we need to understand about tires and batteries are no different.

  1. Tires are rated to support higher speeds they do not make the car go faster, and neither do batteries. Higher Amps is a rating to support more current drawn, they do not “hit harder”.
  2. Tires that are rated for higher speeds also have shorter tread life. Just because your car can go fast, doesn’t mean you need race tires for normal commutes.

So always keep in mind that in a regulated device, you can buy what you need or buy according to your devices maximum settings. You have a choice. Purchasing race tires and driving slower will not make the car any safer, and neither will high drain batteries used on moderate settings be any less dangerous. If you stay within your battery rating’s parameters you are safe, no more, no less.

In fact, it is more optimal to purchase batteries closest to your preferred setting. Batteries get its rating not only because of its continuous amp draw but also where its optimal operating temperature is.
Using batteries that are overrated for your application, although safe, is not optimal because it is operating too cold. Batteries operating too hot means it cannot support the present current applied. However, batteries operating at just the right temperature under the amperage it is rated for will hold the best voltage pressure for your application.

For those who are skeptical the math is absolutely compliant with Ohm’s law. Granted, you could get a little more amperage out of a battery when the charge is full however that would be inaccurate for the full duration of the battery. On a regulated device, the wattage setting is what determines the heat level rather than the resistance of the coil. Also, the fact that operation is based on voltage cut off levels. The correct math to calculate the range of high and low is to use 3.6 to 3.1 Which is the nominal voltage to the average cut off.

While reading this chart, you will notice that the multiple battery setups are not specified whether it is in series or parallel. This is because, on paper, the calculation is the same regardless of battery configuration. A parallel would multiply the amount of amperage by cells present and series would multiply in voltage by a number of cells present. The final calculation is the same although some configurations are not realistic for certain vaping applications because of wire heating coefficient or ramp up time. For example, high wattage vaping in a triple series is very unrealistic when trying to achieve target wattage within a short time.

Nonetheless, I think it’s a big step in innovation with the popularity of Wismec and other triple battery devices that we can see how the load is shared between multi-battery setups and thus be putting less stress on our battery are granting more vape time in many buck mode applications. Three type B batteries could be used in an RX200 firing safely at 150 watts which are more than enough for most Vapers and can be used for the full duration of the battery’s charge.

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